The Grape Behind Tokaj – and Why It's Even Better Dry

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What Is Furmint?

Furmint is a white grape grown almost exclusively in Hungary's Tokaj-Hegyalja region, where it has been cultivated since at least 1571. Of roughly 3,700 hectares planted globally, nearly all are in Tokaj. It ripens late, builds intensity, and holds its acidity even in hot summers. Winemakers describe it as a grape that does half their job for them.

Furmint shares the same ancient parent variety, Gouais blanc, as both Chardonnay and Riesling. That lineage shows in the glass. Dry Furmint carries the mineral precision of a good Riesling and the body and texture of a serious Chardonnay, but it tastes like neither. It has a character of its own.

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Why Everyone Knows It as a Sweet Wine

Tokaji Aszú, the amber-coloured dessert wine that Louis XIV called the "Wine of Kings, King of Wines," made Furmint's reputation across Europe in the 17th and 18th centuries. The grape's loose bunches and thick skins make it naturally susceptible to noble rot (botrytis), which shrivels the berries, concentrates the sugars, and produces the layers of apricot, honey, and orange peel that Tokaj is known for.

Sweet was the default for centuries. Dry Furmint existed at the margins, consumed locally and rarely exported. If you have read our piece on Tokaji Aszú and how to decode the label, you will know how storied that tradition is. The dry chapter is newer, and in many ways more interesting.

The Shift That Changed Everything

The modern dry Furmint movement is traceable to one man and one vintage. In 2000, winemaker István Szepsy produced Tokaj's first commercially significant dry Furmint: a single-vineyard wine called Szent Tamás. It was complex, mineral, and structured, and it showed that Furmint had the depth to stand on its own without sugar.

Producers in the village of Mád followed. Today, virtually every serious Tokaj producer makes a dry Furmint. The best are single-vineyard wines expressing individual terroirs, volcanic tuff, clay, loess, with the kind of precision normally associated with white Burgundy. Furmint's high acidity acts as a natural preservative, giving well-made dry expressions a genuine ability to age.

International Furmint Day, held every February 1st, now attracts tastings and events around the world, a sign of how far the dry movement has travelled in under 25 years. 

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What Does Dry Furmint Taste Like?

Young dry Furmint is bright and precise. Expect Meyer lemon, green apple, fresh pear, and a thread of ginger, with a mineral, almost smoky finish. The acidity is high (7 to 9 g/L of tartaric acid) and the alcohol sits between 12 and 14% ABV, giving it real presence without heaviness.

With age, the profile deepens. The citrus softens into quince and baked pear; the smoke becomes more pronounced; a honeyed nuttiness emerges without any sweetness. A well-kept dry Furmint from a good vintage can develop for 5 to 10 years and beyond, with more longevity than most whites at a comparable price point.

How Dry Furmint Compares

Why Sommeliers Are Paying Attention

Dry Furmint has become one of the more talked-about discovery grapes among wine professionals, mentioned alongside Assyrtiko from Greece and Blaufränkisch from Austria. It punches above its price, it is genuinely unusual, and it has the kind of acid backbone that works across a wide range of food.

In Singapore, that last point matters. The acidity and mineral tension that define dry Furmint make it a natural fit for the bold, umami-heavy flavours that run through so much of the food we eat here. We have written about how it holds up against hawker food, from chicken rice to chilli crab to Hokkien mee. It does equally well at a tasting-menu dinner. It is one of the most versatile food wines we know, at any price. 

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How to Read a Furmint Label

The label does the work for you:

• "Furmint" alone, without "Aszú" or "Late Harvest" means dry.
• "Tokaji Aszú" is always sweet, measured in puttonyos (5 or 6).
• "Tokaji Furmint Száraz": száraz means dry in Hungarian.
• A single vineyard name (e.g. Úrágya, Nyúlászó, Percze, Szent Tamás) indicates the premium tier, where individual terroirs are expressed with the most precision.

For more on how Tokaj's wine styles fit together, our guide to Hungary's wine regions covers the full picture. And if you want to understand the sparkling side of Furmint, we cover that too in A Tokaj Revival with Hungarian Bubbles.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Furmint always sweet?

No. Furmint is the grape behind Hungary's famous Tokaji Aszú sweet wines, but it also produces bone-dry whites. The label tells you which you are getting. "Aszú" always means sweet. "Furmint" alone almost always means dry.

How does dry Furmint compare to Sauvignon Blanc?

Both are high-acid whites, but dry Furmint tends to be fuller-bodied and more textured, with a mineral and smoky quality that Sauvignon Blanc does not have. If you enjoy Sancerre or white Burgundy, dry Furmint is a natural next step.

What food does dry Furmint pair with in Singapore?

It is one of the most versatile whites we know for local food. The high acidity cuts through oil and richness; the mineral backbone holds up to bold flavours. It works well with steamed fish, grilled seafood, chicken rice, and spiced dishes. We have covered our favourite local pairings here.

Does dry Furmint age well?

Yes, more than most whites at its price point. A well-made example from a good vintage can develop for 5 to 10 years, shifting from bright citrus to deeper quince, nut, and smoke. If you find a bottle you enjoy, buying a second to open a few years later is not a bad idea.

Is Furmint only grown in Hungary?

Almost entirely. Of roughly 3,700 hectares planted globally, nearly all are in Hungary's Tokaj-Hegyalja region. Small plantings exist in Austria (where it is called Mosler) and Slovenia (Šipon), but Tokaj is where the best examples come from.